Image © Christine Alvarado, Du Buh Du Designs, 2012
{ Art Doll Supplies }
1. I have a used several different polymer clays throughout the past few years but my favorite is Super Sculpey Firm. It's a grey clay and unlike most malleable clays, this must be cut up into thin slices and run multiple times through a pasta machine. I build up my dolls in layers now, and they go through several runs in my convection oven (used only for clay). S.S.F does not melt in my hand, as softer clays do, and I prefer the weight of the dolls with this clay. I have tried using paperclay but the texture feels strange~ something akin to sculpting with marsh mellows. If you are new to doll making, try both as you will probably develop a preference for one or the other.
2. Turpenoid Natural is a great way to get rid of flaws in the polymer just before baking/firing. Just dip a brush in and lightly brush over the clay and it ever so slightly melts the clay.
3. Apoxie Clay (two part mix) ..what a life saver! I'm the sort that is put off by anything I have to mix together, but this is very easy to use, though a bit sticky*. You can add this onto clay that has already been baked. It can be added to strengthen weak areas like the arms or neck of a doll. I often add it to the torso if I need to add some length to the doll. I also use it on the base of shoes and it dries within 24 hours. You can buy direct from the Aves Company. *There is also the safety smoothing solvent which I recommend to help with the stickiness factor.
4. Liquitex Gesso~ Right now I'm looking into different types of firm white clays so that I can eliminate this time consuming process involving multiple steps of gessoing and sanding. In the meantime, I prefer this gesso as it is non toxic and does not have all of the cancer warnings that some other brands do.
Tip: This gesso is very thin and I prefer a thicker consistency. I usually pour Liquitex gesso into a wide 8 oz jar and stir every few hours for two days (putting the lid on at night). This thickens the gesso to the consistency of such brands as Golden.
5. For my dolls faces, I use Sennelier professional fine acrylic paints and Liquitex soft body acrylic paints. I like to do some shading, and additional coloring, with Derwent watercolor + Derwent Inktense pencils .
6. I spend a lot of time sanding layers of Liquitex gesso and paint (with a mask and goggles of course). It is not one of my favorite parts of doll making, as it takes forever , but I like the smooth effect it gives to my dolls. I use soft sanding sponges by 3M (comes in Medium, Fine, extra-fine). Best ti buy these in bulk as they can be expensive.They can be washed a reused a few times and cut into smaller pieces.
7. Varnish~ I prefer Liquitex matte varnish (it's actually a bit on the satin side) because it's easy to use and cleans up with water. Lascaux also puts out a fantastic varnish that is more of a true matte finish. The only thing to beware of, is that it does darken the paint a shade. Both are UV protective.
8. Hair~ I have been using Viscose for several years and I purchase it directly from OOAK Artist Emporium. I also use high quality Suri alpaca which can be found from various sources online.
9. Glues~ I use Acid-free Tacky glue to apply my dolls hair (easy clean up, no awful smell).
10. Sequins~ I have several trays in almost every color, but I pretty much use just the clear or pearlescent ones. I plan to include the colors when I go back to colored fabrics. I purchase my sequins from here. Fast shipping and great customer service.
(Update: I prefer to use antique and vintage metal sequins in addition to vintage/antique fabrics).
11. My model-maker husband introduced me to this ultra strong glue and I can't imagine not having this in my studio. I use both to glue down difficult items such as my domes, shrines, wire, etc. Insta-set and Insta-cure can be found at any hobby shop or online. Ventilation is required, of course as it's rather strong smelling..
Please Note:
When I list products on my blog, it is because they are items that I view as quality materials.
I am in no way affiliated with any of these companies, nor have I been paid, or been given free supplies, in exchange for posting about them, etc..
All of the information provided here is based on years of experimentation and my own personal preference.
February 2012
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