Image © Christine Alvarado, Du Buh Du Designs, 2012
{ Art Doll Supplies }
1. I have a used several different polymer clays throughout the past few years but my favorite is Super Sculpey Firm. It's a grey clay and unlike most malleable clays, this must be cut up into thin slices and run multiple times through a pasta machine. I build up my dolls in layers now and they go through several runs in the oven. SSF does not melt in my hand, as softer clays do, and I prefer the weight of the dolls with this clay.
For the record~I do use not paper clay(s). I have tried switching to paper clays but the texture feels strange~ something akin to sculpting with marshmellows. If you are new to dollmaking, try both as you will probably have a preference for one or the other.
2. For areas of clay that your fingers can't quite smooth out, Turpenoid Natural is a great way to get rid of flaws in the polymer just before baking/firing. Just dip a brush in and lighty brush over the clay and it ever so slightly melts the clay.
3. Apoxie Clay (two part mix) ..what a life saver! I'm the sort that is put off by anything I have to mix together, but this is very easy to use, though a bit sticky*. You can add this onto clay that has already been baked. It can be added to strengthen weak areas like the arms or neck of a doll. I often add it to the torso if I need to add some length to the doll. I also use it on the base of shoes and it dries within 24 hours. You can buy direct from the Aves Company. *There is also the safety smoothing solvent which I recommend to help with the stickiness factor.
4. Liquitex Gesso~ Right now I'm looking into different types of firm white clays so that I can eliminate this time consuming process involving multiple steps of gessoing and sanding. In the meantime, I prefer this gesso as it is non toxic and does not have all of the cancer warnings that some other brands do.
Tip: This gesso is very thin and I prefer a thicker consistency. I usually pour Liquitex gesso into a wide 8 oz jar and stir every few hours for two days (putting the lid on at night). This thickens the gesso to the consistency of such brands as Golden.
5. For my dolls faces, I use Sennelier professional paints and Liquitex soft body acrylic paints . I also do some shading, and additional coloring with Derwent watercolor + Derwent Inktense pencils .
6. I spend a lot of time sanding layers of Liquitex gesso and paint (with a mask and goggles of course). It is not one of my favorite parts of doll making, as it takes forever , but I like the smooth effect it gives to my dolls. I use soft sanding sponges by 3M (comes in Medium, Fine, extra-fine). The chain craft and hardware stores carry these for between $2.50-$4.50 each but I was pleased to discover that my locally owned paint store carries them for $.89 each (minus the packaging). These can be washed a reused a few times and cut into small pieces.
7. Varnish~ I prefer Liquitex matte varnish (it's actually a bit on the satin side) because it's easy to use and cleans up with water. Lascaux also puts out a fantastic varnish that is more of a true matte finish. The only thing to beware of, is that it does darken the paint a shade. Both are UV protective.
8. Hair~ I have been using Viscose for several years and I purchase it directly from OOAK Artist Emporium . Occasionally I use Tussah silk which you can also find on the last link, Etsy, Ebay,etc. I also use high quality Suri alpaca which can be found from various sources on google.
9. Glues~ I use Acid-free Tacky glue to apply my dolls hair (easy clean up, no awful smell). A lot of doll makers use Fabri-tac. I'm not crazy about the smell and no longer use it for hair anymore as it's very stringy and messy . I do use it for gluing some fabric and for making doll shoes.
10. Sequins~ I have several trays in almost every color, but I pretty much use just the clear or pearlescent ones. I plan to include the colors when I go back to colored fabrics. I purchase my sequins from here. Fast shipping and great customer service.
11. This is awful smelling glue and accelerator, but my model maker husband introduced me to this ultra strong glue and I can't imagine not having this in my studio. I use both to glue down difficult items such as my domes, shrines, wire, etc. Insta-set and Insta-cure can be found at any hobby shop or online. Ventilation required, of course. Lots of it.
Please note: When I list products on my blog it is because they are items that I view as quality materials.
I am in no way affiliated with any of these companies, nor have I been paid, or been given free supplies, in exchange for posting about them, etc..
All of the information provided is based on my personal preference via years of experimentation.
February 2012
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